Monday, March 14, 2011

More of Cat Island

The Heritage was the highlight of Rock Sound but we also spent some time doing a walk about and getting to know the area. You would think that all the Islands are full of fruits and vegetables. Not the case, in fact most of the fruits and vegetables come in on the mail boat from Florida.  We had heard that Cat Island was known for its agriculture. On the way back and forth from The Hermitage we discovered the agricultural parts of New Bight. We passed an area where a man was tending to a controlled burn in the “fields”. The term fields is being loosely used here because they were certainly not farmers fields as we know then but rather a clearing cut in the brush that had cut down and covered in mostly rock.  In the next “field” we spotted something red and discovered 1000’s of cherry tomatoes. And upon further investigation we spotted cabbage and okra. You would probably expect to see them growing in neat little rows with carefully weeded furrow but not here. Here the vegetables are growing everywhere with more rock than soil. We did taste the tomatoes and they were delicious.  Look carefully at the picture below to see the vegetables. Double click to enlarge the picture.

                                                                                  Garden in Rock Sound    
                 
Next stop is the New Bight School where we dropped off books and spent some time talking to the teachers and children here. Few boats drop off books here so we were warmly welcomed and the books received with big smiles. The kids waved goodbye at recess as we pushed the dinghy off the beach behind the school. How many kids get to have their school steps from a beach?

New Bight School grade 2 with some new books from Scolastics Canada

Back to the boat to pick up our bikes for a bicycle tour of the southern part of Cat Island. Our folding bikes are great because they fit in a bag so that we can put them in the dinghy to keep the salt spray off when taking them to shore. We had used our bikes in Florida but his was our first time using our bikes in the Bahamas and what an adventure. We travelled south towards Old Bight. We spotted the sign for “Welcome to Old Bight” and then 300 yards away in the opposite direction is the sign “You are now leaving Old Bight”. It was a quick visit.

We spotted many fruit trees including papaya, banana, sour orange (which is used for conch salad), sapodilla (dilly fruit for short), Yucca, HUGE mango trees filled (that aren’t ripe till August L) and sea grapes.  We spotted and picked fruit along the way and talked to the locals about the various plants and trees.
Big Yucca plant

We took a rough road towards Pilots Harbour and discovered a little restaurant / bar on the water with a spectacular view of the harbour.  We enjoyed a mid afternoon Klick (Bahamian beer) while chatting with the young man at the bar. His grandfather had built the place and now his uncle owned it. He shared with us his memories of the hurricanes and how the harbour has changed. One hurricane silted in the little creek beside the restaurant and took out the pier so now there is not enough water for boats to come into anchor. He didn’t have change for a $20 so he asked us to stop up the road at the gas station to pay his aunt for the beer. When we got there, she was expecting us. We continued on the road back to Old Bight and stopped at the Two Corners Liquor Store for a cold drink. They serve both alcoholic drinks and cold soda drinks. We biked to the little “take-aways” along the beach road where all the fish fry huts are. We had dinner at Chrystal’s take-away. Ted had chicken and I had some sort of fish that I could understand what she said it was. I fed some of my fish to the cats patiently waiting at my feet. 
If I had a restaurant here I would paint it orange too or maybe pink! Ted with Crystal at her take-away.

Grandma Farrah’s place was brightly painted

The view of Grandma Farrah's restaurant from the boat

We picked up delicious coconut bread/cake from another hut which we enjoyed back at the boat. Everyone in town knew we were from the “big power boat”. Maybe it was our shiny red bikes! Everyone was amazed that we had rode from New Bight to Old Bight , which was about 5 miles but they thought that was really far.
March 5th -  We once again biked to the abandoned road that lead to from the west side to the east side of the island. We biked as far as we could and then left our bikes by a tree and hike up the coral rock trail for another 45 minutes to reach the beach. It was worth the hike because we discovered a beach off the beaten track rarely visited by others. We spent the next four hours picking sea glass (for jewellery and craft) shells and sea beans. With the east winds the surf was too rough to go very far in but we enjoyed our beach walk and never saw another soul all afternoon.

East side of Cat Island. Check the big waves behind me.
Bennett Harbour
March 6th – Up early to ready the boat for a cruise further up the coast of Cat Island to Bennett Harbour 16 miles away. The clouds threaten rain but no rain while we were anchoring. We took the dinghy up the creek at Bennett Harbour to discover a very small harbour with one Canadian catamaran anchored, whom we later found out is someone from Kingston, Ontario who has built a house near Bennett Harbour. Once in the harbour we found a brand new very impressive government dock and yellow government building but not a soul around and only a very poor beach to bring the dinghy into.  We did not take pictures at Bennett which I now regret. The “NO Loafing” sign was priceless. What else are you going to do in Bennett Harbour but loaf! The local teen agers were playing basketball on the Queens Highway (the main street on very island) in the only shady area of the whole street. It was Sunday so no one was around. We did see 2 guys loafing around (drinking) at the restaurant/bar/store/gas station in town. Like the government dock the recreation centre was brand new.  The school was closed because it was Sunday but the guy at the gas station said he would pick the books we had at the dock and deliver them to the school. He begged us not to leave with the books but to leave them for the kids. By the look of the community they did look like they needed them.  We went back to the boat and dropped off the school books at the dock as promised and headed further north along the coast to check out Arthur’s Town and see if we could get wifi to get a weather update. A previous hurricane had taken out the dock at Arthur’s Town and the rocks looked nasty, so with no beach or dock access we waved to people on the dock and headed back.
Before going back to the boat we dove a few reefs around the boat looking for lobster or conch. No luck but we did find lots of small shells known as sea biscuits but these ones were miniature size and worth keep, except for the fact that they are so fragile. We broke a number of them before we got back to the boat.  

Next stop Little San Salvatore (aka Half Moon Cay)

P.S. I am sitting on the steps in front of the Government Building which is alway pink in the Bahamas (don't you love it!) doing this blog. The service is slow but the view is fantastic.

Friday, March 11, 2011

Living on Cat Island


We are thinking that Cat Island maybe our retirement home once we sell the boat!
I got a job offer to work here at the bar. Ted would be cleaning and cooking conch.

Found a little place although it does need a bit of work.

It's a small town.

Look closely and you will see the Welcome to Old Bight sign in the background! (yes for real)

We loved Cat Island because they have a sense of humor here!

The Hermitage on Cat Island

March 3, 2011
Our morning ritual is to run the generator to charge the boat batteries which keeps all of our refrigeration  and lights working through the day. At the same time we run the water maker and I also run a batch of laundry a few days a week which I hang up on a make shift clothes line on the top deck. I use the dryer just for towels because they end up feeling like scratchy cardboard otherwise. During this time we catch up on our to-do list or plan our cruising. Once this is done then we have the rest of the day to ourselves.  Now that we don’t have the morning net we have 30-45 minutes extra time every day.
Today we dinghy to the beach and walk up to Mount Alvenia (also called Mount or Comer Hill) which is the highest hill in the Bahamas at 206 feet.  This is where Beloved Father Jerome built “The Hermitage” atop of Mount Comer.   The Hermitage is a monument to the faith of one man, Father Jerome (born John Cecil  Hawes). Born in England in 1876, he first became an architect and then an Anglican priest. After the 1908 hurricane, the Anglican Bishop sent this architect/priest to restore the damaged churches. His unique stamp of hurricane-proof stonework with its thick walls and barrel vaulted roofs can be seen in seven churches that he rebuilt on Long Island. After an interim elsewhere as a wagon train driver, a monk, a missionary and a horse breeder, he became a Catholic priest and return to the Bahamas to build Catholic churches.  In 1937 he received permission from the Bishop to retire on Cat Island as a hermit. He built a miniature replica of a European Franciscan Monastery. The entire structure was built with his own hands out of native rock as his retirement home. His humble devotion to God, which carries all the way up the hill through the Stations of the Cross, past the replica of Jesus tomb to his Spartan living quarters and small chapel for private devotions.  He chose a place where he could look east and see the colbalt blue of the Atlantic Ocean and to the west where he could gaze upon the emerald and turquoise waters of the banks. He lived here until his death at age 80. He is buried beneath “The Hermitage” that he so lovely built with his own hands.
As we approached The Hermitage I was unsure what to expect. We had read that you must signal your approach by striking a stone on a piece of scrape metal left hanging off a tree. We did so and we amazed a the amount of detail and care taken in the building of the Stations of the Cross along the hill side and the Hermitage. We are grateful for the Bahamians who continue to care for this treasured place since Father Jerome’s death in 1956. We took about a 100 pictures but pictures do not do this justice. 





The Adventures of Cat Island

New adventures at Cat Island

                                                                    
March 2, 2011 At dawn we are up and making the final preparations to leave. The winds are calm as we leave to head 53 miles to our next destination, Cat Island.  We cruised slowly past the anchored boats on our way out of the harbour with waves and cheers of “safe voyage”. 


                Leaving George Town, Exuma
At 08:15 we set a waypoint for Hawkes Nest at the southern tip of Cat Island 37.9 miles away. We have a pleasant cruise with clear skies and barely any wind until 10:50 when the winds increase and the skies darken with a passing shower. The winds increase again as we make our approach into New Bight to anchor. The sky is overcast and we need to sun to navigate the coral heads in this shallow anchorage. We slowed down hoping that the rain will pass before we anchor but to no avail.  IF it’s going to rain then it's going to rain while we are anchoring! 

Stay tuned for more from Cat Island. I am just CATching up on the blog!

No February blues here

No February Blues here!

Where oh where did February go. Temperatures are 26-29 (low to mid 80’s) every day with only one day of rain this month, of course that was the day we left all the doors and windows open! It was also the same day that I told my brother who was visiting us from Calgary, that it never rains here. At the time the rain started we were at Honeymoon Beach to celebrate the wedding of some new cruising friends aboard “Artful Dodger”.  We will have the opportunity to meet this new couple again in Port Credit this summer. Even more special was that our friend Christine on “Felix the Cat” was performing her first ceremony as an ordained minister.  We all waited until the rain passed and huddled together to try to keep the bride dry. After the ceremony we had a reception on the beach complete with rum punch and freshly baked cookie and lemon square that the groom had baked. At the ceremony I also had the pleasure of pleasure of meeting a couple from Switzerland that had taken a year off to cruise with their kids. What an amazing experience for these two young children ages 8 & 12. A few nights before I met another couple who had taken a year when their daughter was born to cruise during the maternity/paternity leave.  Their little girl was such a gem and entertained us as she put black olives on her fingers.   Like all of these other people we have met, this is as well a special and treasure time in our lives.
We are ever grateful for the new friends but the best part of February was reuniting with old friends.  Dalton and Louise from “Pendragon” passed by our boat and shouted hello when they entered the harbour and anchored next to us. What a great feeling to see them again after 5 years.  In the dinghy on the way back from town I spotted “Cheetah II” and met up with them at the social after beach church on Sunday. Dick and Jane (yes really their names) have spent the last 4 years in the Caribbean and are going back home for a year to catch up on family ties. Jane has been making stunning jewellery from sea glass and silver. I was shocked a few days later when she took off a piece that I was admiring and handed it to me and said “I may not see you again so I want you to have this piece”.  I wanted to buy it but was reminded that you can put a cost on friendship.   We are so fortunate to have spent time with our dear friends Ed & Marge on Margaret Lee. We have followed their travels since we met them in 2005 and at 65 and 70 they show no signs of slowing down. When we were not cruising, Ed kept us entertained with his monthly email of their adventures allowing us to be with them in spirit.
I have enjoyed teaching aqua fitness classes on the beach in the morning. The class was sometimes organized and quite often filled with singing and laughter.  Deserving a special mention are Charm and Run-Around Ron on “Bout Time, Tex”.  And like most Texans they have hearts as big as Texas.  Ron’s “art of running around” can only truly be appreciated as a boater having cruised the inter-coastal.  Charm (yes her real name) and Mary on “High Noon” from Toronto agreed to take on the aqua fitness class after I leave.  Mary suffers from terrible arthritis so it is amazing that she enjoys the class so much that she is now leading it. Other regulars at class were  Judy and Mike aboard “Sea Sharp” from Fredericton, NB  and at Sand Dollar beach for appetizers and hit it off right away.  Mike suggested we call the class something “manly” so we changed it to “man-ercise” and the class filled up with men, including Mike .  
Yoga another first! We climbed to the gazebo on the hilltop on stocking island for an evening yoga class offering by a visitor aboard “Sea Yawl Latter” (from Texas ofcourse).  Half of the class were men, which was surprising considered I tricked Ted into going by saying that there would be other men, but I never thought there would be so many. The view was absolutely breathtaking and so peaceful. What a great introduction to Yoga!
The George Town Cruising Regatta is starting and the boat count has jumped to 360+ boats.  As the regatta starts we make our plans to leave and start heading north. This way we can enjoy the quiet harbours without the throng of cruisers headed north.  After two months we are ready to leave. We stay for the final meet and greet on opening night of regatta to say our good-byes to new and old friends. Time to go cruising again!

Pictures in paradise

My brother Roger "learning" to play beach bocce
Isn't this a million dollar view
At Chat 'n Chill Beach Bar
We call these "tree angels"
Our friends getting married on the beach
Making our conch salad (it's winter and below 30 degrees so he is wearing his toque)
Showing my brother a big star fish I found
George Town school
Students hamming it up for the camera. Love those beautiful smiles.

Wednesday, February 2, 2011

Adventures of Pigeon Cay

Thursday January 27, 2011 – After having spent the week lying low and recovering from my illness I am ready to go again. The weather is good so we decided to cruise to Pigeon Cay and few miles away to get away from George Town. Pigeon Cay is regarded as a day anchorage or an overnight anchorage if the weather is settled. We carefully picked our way through the coral heads and use eyeball navigation to get us into the anchorage looking for the bright blue color which means white sand beneath. We arrived to find our friends on the catamaran “Felix the Cat” and another sailboat that both lifted anchor just after we arrive. Two small skiffs are also there with guests from the local resort but within minutes they leave as well. Pigeon Cay has a sand spit that is 300 feet along and 20 feet wide that runs west of the island that is formed from the surf action that comes in around the island from the north and the south.  It ‘s quite and unusual occurrence to see the current coming around both sides of and island from different directions. The water around the sand spit goes from one foot and then drops  to 5 feet, making the on and off the dinghy (also known amongst cruisers as “the dink”)  a bit of a challenge. We dinghy to the sand spit and go for a walk along the beach collecting sea shells but the no-see-ums at dusk send us quickly back to the boat. By sunset we are the only boat anchored at Pigeon Cay. With the gentle movement of the surf we relax for a evening of peace and solitude. Away from the lights of George Town we can truly appreciate the clear star-filled night.

Boatel anchored at Pigeon behind the sand spit

Friday January 28, 2011 – We head out early in the dinghy after a quick breakfast on the hunt for lobsters.  We don’t have far to go because this small island is surrounded by reef. Ted free dives this morning but still not feeling 100% I opt to relax in the dinghy with my favourite music on my IPOD.  As Ted explores the reefs and shallow ledges he gets further away from me so I start the motor, pick up the anchor and move closer to him so that he does not have to swim back as far. He reports back that he has speared a hog fish but it got away.  Off he goes again. Within minutes he has broken the surface with a shout “got a Hogfish”.  As he struggles to bring the large fish to the surface and back to the dink, I catch sight of the 8 pound, 27 inch giant Hogfish. The spear is heavy with the large fish and difficult to swim with put he manages to get it back to the dink before a barracuda or shark spots the free lunch. If you don’t keep the fish or lobster up and out of the water while you are swimming back then you risk losing your catch. After the swim back Ted is tire so we head back to the boat.

We pack a lunch and take the dink to the sand spit for a picnic on the beach. We  pondered which side of the spit to anchor on first the north side and then to the south side but we figured our best bet was to anchor on the north side with an anchor off the bow in the deep water. We watched the dink a few minutes and decided that we had done a good job anchoring and headed off for our picnic and walk around the island. This beach does not get visited that often so there are lots of shells to choose from. We spend an hour exploring the island, photographing some gecko and vegetation. When we get back to the sand spit, Ted says “ I think we have water in the dinghy”. Well let me tell you friends, we have never had so much water in the dink. So much so that it was sloshing out of the back transom of the boat. The wind and waves had changed and it had swamped the boat. We discover a paddle, my shoes and our manual bailer strewn about the beach. The gas container is floating upside down and the battery for our electric start motor is under water. Surprisingly the motor started even though the battery is underwater! We started the electric bilge pump as we stood up to our chest in water holding the boat into the waves. Once the dink was ½ empty of water we got in and very slowly motored to back to the mothership with all of our belongings floating in the dink. Once we got back to Boatel Ted finished bailing the dink while I got the boat ready to lift anchor and head back to the George Town. Later Ted mentioned that we should have taken photos of the swamped dinghy but at the time we were just try to recover from our mishap.
The Hogfish got put in the fridge for dinner the next night because we decided to go to Two Turtles bar for the Friday night rib night in town. We meet new people on S/V “The Artful Dodger” who are looking to summer at Port Credit Harbour Marina so we share our experiences with them about wintering in Port Credit.