Wednesday, March 30, 2011

To the Bat Cave Robin

March 11, 2011
We had rain in the morning for about an hour and a half which did a good job rinsing the salt off the boat. After the rain we headed to town to pick up some fuel and straw baskets as gifts. I go back to the post office to mail another post card. As I mentioned before the post office is always in the government office which is always pink so it is easy to find the post office.  
          Pink government office and post office

After lunch we walked south of town to the second church and find the entrance to another pond and the path leading to the cave. Someone had installed a new ladder to get down into the entrance of the caves. I also have to explain that these caves are actually very impressive underground rooms. We wonder in amazement from one room to another.
 
Ladder down to the cave

 
Look at how small I am in relation to the ceiling height
We were told by the other cruisers at Rose’s that the trip to the cave is worthwhile and that there are no bats but I still keep a watchful eye and I am pleased to report no bats!
 
Inside the cave. I am in the middle of the picture. Those are Banyan vines growing (up or down) from the huge Banyan tree over head.
On the way back to the boat we notice a few new homes with waterfront view that are rental cottages. They look out of place beside the older stone houses with missing roofs. It seems odd to us that there are so many stone building that are abandoned that seem to have solid foundation walls and yet people build new homes from the ground up. Maybe it is unlucky to restore a house that has been damaged by a hurricane?
We didn't see a lot of new building expect for a very few new rental proporties such as the one below. There were pineapples on the gates and on the fence across the street too. The house next door however was a an abandoned hurricane house with the windows gone and the roof in sad repair but at least it had a roof.
New rental property with shutters closed

 
The house next door

Lots of abandoned stone buildings

We passed Grandma’s Goodies a few times but it was never open

A map of the Island on the wall at the plaza. We are the very south part on the Island above what looks like the whale's tail on the left hand side.
The view from the beach at Rock Sound with the Boatel at anchor. Notice no other boats around us!

Swimming with the fishes at Rock Sound!

 March 10, 2011
We decided to head out early to spear outside in “the Bight” and wait till later to run the generator.  We spent the morning moving from one small patch of reef to the next. We had a successful outing with 3 small lobster, 13 Lionfish and 3 large conchs in our buckets before returning to the boat at 11:30. The Lionfish are plentiful and we do our best to help irradiate this invasive fish. We also get some good underwater pictures on the shallow reef.
Yellow Stingray

Scrawled Cowfish - look closely and you can see his horns

Queen Angelfishes
By the look on the captains face you can tell that cleaning the conch is the least favourite part. The conch (animal) is in his right hand and turned out to be great conch fritters.
After lunch we head back to the school to drop off the rest of the school supplies and pick up our cart. Natasha arranges for her husband to drop us off at the Shopping Plaza just north of town on his way home to drop off the children.  He is a real estate developer and built the plaza. He tells us to let the cashier know when we are done and she will arrange to have someone drive us back to the dock. This is the most impressive grocery store we have seen since leaving Florida. We stopped at the liquor store to pick up a case of rum which was $60 for a case of 12 one litre bottles! We got 10% off for a case but he only had eight bottles in stock so we filled the case with another brand. He said he would get more next week. There was no stock in the back, what they had on the shelf was what was available.  Sure enough we got a drive back to the dock with someone who was headed to the airport, even though I did point out that the airport was in the opposite directions to which she responded “no problem, my pleasure”. 

Peace, Love and Sandy Feet in Rock Sound

March 9, 2011
We sorted out the school supplies while the generator was running and got ready for our adventures to the east side of the ocean for a day at the beach. Bahamians call this the North Side for some reason we can’t explain.  We walked up to the school and visited the kindergarten and grade two class. The kindergartens were just going out for recess so we got pictures by the playground. They just loved the Canadian flags we gave them.

Ted & the Rock Sound Kindergarten
Isn't she just a doll!

 The Grade 2 class gave us their best smiles.
                               
To all of you that were at our going away party and donated books and crafts, these pictures are for you!
What really surprised us is how polite of the children on Eleuthera have been, always saying good-morning or good-afternoon.  As we were meeting with Natasha the principal, a tour bus arrived from Princess Cay with people stopped here from Princess Cruise Lines. Natasha said that they get tours almost every day and sometimes a couple of times a day. She grabs a drum and rushes off to meet the tour bus and brings them to the grade two class where they perform 3 musical song and dance numbers for the tourist from the cruise ship. Natasha invites us to join the group and I get the children on video.  Natasha explains to the group how important tourism dollars are for them. The money gets allocated to help operate the school for which they are grateful. In fact one of the song is “tourism money is so much fun...”.  I wish I could post the video I took here but I don't have enough bandwidth on the wifi.
Natasha explains to us that the government provides funding for the basics but extra’s like glue and craft supplies which she calls “fluff” are funded by the teachers out of their own pocket.  I explained how we collected school supplies at our going away party and distributed them to the schools in the Bahamas.  I asked if other boaters dropped off supplies and sadly she said no.  George Town and the Exuma Islands get so much but I guess that these islands get forgotten. I told her that I would put something out on www.cruisernet.com  to try to spread the world.  I also recommended that they register with the Seven Seas Cruising Association. We will do our part this summer to collect craft supplies for them. 
We said our good-byes and head further up the road another mile to the east side of the island and another secluded beach.  We left our cart  at the school which we used to transport the books and promised to come back later in the day to pick it up. Natasha offered us a drive to the beach but we opted to walk instead and enjoy the island. We easily found our way down the path to the beach.  We stopped to talk to a Bahamian on the beach who was friendly but difficult to understand. He has walking along the rocks looking for shells and managed to find a turban shell with a huge hermit crab in it. He would use this as bait to catch the Triggerfish that swam along the waters edge. Today it was too rough for him to go out and fish.  He got on his bike and drove away and we never saw anyone else the rest of the day – our beach. I got a t-shirt from Ted for Christmas that said “Peace Love and Sandy Feet”. It describes our experience in the Bahamas perfectly. 
When we arrived we ate our picnic lunch and left our shoes and backpack near some rocks and head off to explore. We spend the entire afternoon walking along the beach collecting shell, sea glass and sea beans. We went in for a swim around the coral heads looking for what we could find in the water. Four hours later we were back to our shoes with a bag full of treasures.
We had seen a sign and heard about a restaurant on the ocean side so we head off in search of it with no idea how far it really is. We walk along the road and occasionally see small wooden signs telling us that we are headed in the right direction.

Rose’s Nort’ Side Restaurant sign
We follow the hydro lines and arrive on a small cluster of roofs. We walk past the first house and hear a dog barking. Rose the owner of the restaurant comes out to shout to us that we are going the wrong way. We back track and are greeted by a fat tail wagging golden lab named “Teddy” who Rose tells us “hates black people – he just growls at them but he knows the white people will pet him”. She welcomes us to her restaurant and announces we are just in time because she is about to serve dinner to some other cruisers.  With an ice-cold Klick in hand, we introduce ourselves and have time to get to know each other before we sit down at a large table to enjoy Rose’s home made Bahamian cooking.  I have to take a moment to describe the Nort’ Side Restaurant.  You first enter the bar with its sand covered floor and ceiling covered in palm fronds. What a great bar.
The sand covered floor at the bar at Nort’ Side Restaurant
You walk through the bar to the enclosed patio in the back which is an eclectic mix of shells, marine and nautical decor. A turtle shell is mounted on one of the wall. The restaurant seats 30 to 35 people and the tables are covered with freshly starched green table clothes and Rose’s hand made candle holders.   Definitely a Bahamian experience. Rose offers to drive everyone back to the dock (it’s part of the deal with dinner). She takes the other 5 cruisers first and comes back for us. We start walking and she picks us up on the way. We find out that Rose had worked at Batelco (telephone company) and had raised here  children in Grand Bahama.  Her and her husband had bought the cottage and the restaurant as a retirement dream of his 11 years ago. Unfortunately he died five months after they moved and she stayed on to run the cottages and restaurant.  She has built a reputation by word of mouth amongst the cruising community.  We were told that a visit to Rose’s is a must when going to Rock Sound.  We’re glad we had an opportunity to meet Rose.

Tuesday, March 15, 2011

A new Eleutheran Experience

March 8, 2011
As the sun was starting to come up, I walked upstairs to a beautiful new day.  I can’t remember the last time I woke up and thought I don’t want to get up today. Oh yes I remember, it was last May when we were sanding, painting and fiberglassing. But for right now every day brings new experiences.  Today we finish our preparations for our cruise to Eleuthera, another new island, a whole new experience.  

An uneventful 42 nautical mile cruise and by 12:15 we had navigated through the shallow sand bar at the entrance of Davis Channel into the harbour of Rock Sound our first stop on Eleuthera Island.  Like George Town harbour in the Exuma’s , Rock Sound is a protected harbour although much shallower than GT. We see some sailboats anchored closer to town but decide to stay further back in 8.5 feet at high tide. 
After lunch we go off in search for the dinghy dock, which no longer exits but we do find a ladder on the fishing pier for boaters. We do our walk about town, visit some stores, find the post office and get another post card off to our grand-daughter Emma. We try to send post cards at every stop we make so that Emma gets some news from us all winter. We meet Alex on our walk about town (we meet him again later at Governor’s Harbour).  Alex  welcomes us to Eleuthera, gives me  a flower bouquet that he has made of local bougainvillea flowers (for a small donation for his aunt who needs a wheelchair) and a hug.

Diane gets flowers from the welcome committee

Next stop Rock Sound Primary School which has about 200 children. We meet Natasha, the principal at the school and promise to return tomorrow with school supplies. She offers to pick us up at the dock but it isn’t really that far. In fact nothing is more than a mile away in any direction. Next we stop at the Ocean Hole that we have read about.  This is a fresh & salt water hole inland from the ocean. It is home to ocean fish who like bread. We forgot to bring bread but we find that someone had left a few loaves on the ground nearby. We quickly discover that they don’t like being fed in the middle of the day. They obviously are well fed because most of the bread just floated away.  It is said that this is a favourite swimming hole during the summer for the locals, although it is much too cold for them to swim in March. Legend has it that someone once placed a shark in the pool as a joke. The town being small, they found out who it was, fined him and made him remove the shark.  He managed to catch the shark and never reoffended.
Rock Sound Ocean Hole (the swimming “Pool”)


Back to the boat with a view of Rock Sound. As you can see it is very flat compared to New Bight on Cat Island.

Thank you for reading our blog and traveling with us. when I started our journey and this blog, I never realized how time consuming it would be but it has been worth it spending the time to relive ours days and sharing it with you. Hope you are enjoying it. Diane

Photos of Eleuthera underwater

We had a wonderful day today playing around in the water. We headed out this morning for 1 1/2 hours and then again in  the afternoon. We caught 2 Rock Crabs and 1 lobster but more important we discovered a great snorkeling site with great visibility and lots of specials sea creatures. This was our first time swimming with the majestic Spotted Eagle Rays this year. Enjoy!
A little angel fish looking at me in the coral

This is an Spotted Eagle Ray (wing span 6 feet)

A starfish sitting on a barrel sponge

Our favorite little fish, a porcupinefish. It looks like it smiles and is very shy. The puff up (double in size) when they get scared. He has such a personality and is so cute.

This is a teddyfish. He's cute too!

Swimming with 'da fish

This is our two crabs. Delicious dinner.

Once upon a Half Moon Cay

March 7, 2011
It was very rolly overnight so we were anxious to be up and away to our next destination - Little San Salvador. Little San Salvador is 15 miles from Cat Island but  is actually quite a ways away from San Salvador but that is because  Cat Island was originally named San Salvador.  Ted was up early and very excited to cruise and arrive at an area where we had been told and read about in the cruising guide to be a very good place to spear lobster. 
This secluded island was purchased in 1997 by Holland American Cruise Lines and turned into an “Out Island Paradise” exclusively for the guests of the cruise ships. The cruise ships are usually only there 2 – 3 days a week and only for the day. But we discovered in the distance the tall stack of the cruise ship and realized we would have visitors for the day. No worries, lots of room for everyone. All of the beaches in the Bahamas are public up to the high water line so even though they own the island the anchorage waters and the beaches are all public property. The cruise ship asks that you anchor to the north of them so we oblige and find a nice spot away from the mammoth beast.  The people from Cat and Eleuthera arrive to work on the island during the day but return home by boat before sunset.  This is good for the surrounding islands because it provides jobs for many people and then that money is spent in their community.
Our first attempts to anchor weren’t successful but they anchor finally caught. The anchor dragged about 50 feet before it finally grabbed. In times like this it is my job is to jump in and snorkeled to the anchor to make sure it is set, tough job but somebody’s got to do it. I check out the underwater neighbourhood while I am at it. I find a beautiful pink shell but it has a hermit crab in it that refuses to let go.
We are entertained by all the activity from the cruise ship. The horse back riding, the makeshift pirate ship bar on the shore, parasailing and all the other activities for the cruise ship people. 
Cruise ship with its tender bringing people to and from shore
Shore facility built by Holland American Cruise Lines
Horseback riders on the beach

We went spearing in the afternoon on the north side of Half Moon Bay but the surf was too strong to do alot of spearing. It was actually difficult to swim against the current even though we were finning like crazy.  The whole north side of the island was littered with coral heads and reefs, some that were  just below the surface and exposed in the troughs of the swells. We very carefully picked our way through this landmine of reef with the dinghy. We did alot of stop and go looking for the dark patches and exposed reefs. We got back to the boat safely with no altercations with the reefs. They cruise ship left at sunset and we had the place to ourselves for the night. We had drinks and a BBQ on the top deck watching the sunset. No internet access and no weather update so we could only pray for another calm night. The crossing from Little San Salvatore to Eleuthera is only 10 miles but we have been told that it can be very nasty with north or east winds.  We have a calm but rolly night in the anchorage. Tomorrow we will be in the safety of Rock Sound. 

Monday, March 14, 2011

A few final photos of Exuma

At anchor in very settled weather

Our evening yoga class - what a view from the hilltop

My aqua fitness class. 

Dinghy through the hole to get from Lake Victoria to George Town harbour

The dinghy dock in George Town

Someone's last dinghy

Others like to decorate their dinghy
Sunset pictures are great but the perfect sunrise picture is a gem!